IUCN Management Category I (Strict Nature Reserve)

X (World Heritage Site - Criteria: iii, iv)

Biogeographical Province 2.38.12 (Himalayan Highlands)

Geographical Location Lies in Chamoli District, within the Garhwal Himalaya. The main entry point to the park is via Lata Village, some 25km from Joshimath township. The park is bounded by high mountain ridges and peaks on all sides except its western side, which features a deep and virtually inaccessible gorge. 30°16'-30°32'N, 79°44'-80°02'E

Date and History of Establishment Established as a national park with effect from 6 November 1982 as per Notification No. 3912/14-3-35-80 of 6 September 1982, the intention having been declared under Notification No. 2130/14-3-35-80 of 18 August 1980. Dang (1961) provides an historical account of the exploration of the Nanda Devi Basin. The first recorded attempt to enter the sacred basin was by W. W. Graham in 1883, but he was unable to proceed beyond the gorge of the lower Rishi Ganga. Subsequent attempts by Dr T. G. Longstaff in 1870 and Hugh Ruttledge in 1926, 1927 and 1932 also met with failure. Finally, in 1934, Eric Shipton and H. W. Tilman pioneered a route to the 'Inner Sanctuary' by forcing a passage up the gorge of the upper Rishi Ganga. Later, in 1936, Tilman and N. E. Odell made the first ascent of Nanda Devi, reputedly the most outstanding mountaineering success of the pre-Second World War era. It was their accounts of this natural sanctuary that first drew attention to the spectacular mountain wilderness (Tilman, 1935; Shipton, 1936), following which the area was established as a game sanctuary on 7 January 1939 (Government Order No. 1493/XIV-28). Commonly referred to as 'Nanda Devi Sanctuary', the name was changed to Sanjay Gandhi National Park at the time of notification. This met with local opposition and the site was gazetted as Nanda Devi National Park. The park was inscribed on the World Heritage List in December 1988. The park constitutes the core zone of a much larger area (200,000ha), extending as far north as the Dhauli Ganga, that has been proposed as a biosphere reserve (Indian National MAB Committee, n.d.).

Area 63,033ha. This is the official and correct size. Lavkumar (1979) gives the area of the Nanda Devi Basin as 79,900ha, while Hajra (1983a), Tak and Lamba (1984, 1985) and Lamba (1987) cite a similar figure of c. 80,000ha for the park but their demarcation of the boundary is inaccurate.

Land Tenure Provincial government

Altitude The entire basin is above 3,500m, apart from the lower Rishi Gorge which descends to 2,100m. Nanda Devi West at 7,817m is the highest peak.

Physical Features Comprises the catchment area of the Rishi Ganga, an eastern tributary of Dhauli Ganga which flows into the Alaknanda River at Joshimath. The area is a vast glacial basin, divided by a series of parallel, north-south oriented ridges. These rise up to the encircling mountain rim along which are about a dozen peaks above 6,400m (21,000ft), the better known including Dunagiri (7,066m), Changbang (6,864m) and Nanda Devi East (7,434m). Nanda Devi West, India's second highest mountain, lies on a short ridge projecting into the basin and rises up from Nanda Devi East on the eastern rim. Trisul (7,120m), in the south-west, also lies inside the basin. The upper Rishi Valley, often referred to as the 'Inner Sanctuary', is fed by Changbang, North Rishi and North Nanda Devi glaciers to the north and by South Nanda Devi and South Rishi glaciers to the south of the Nanda Devi massif. There is an impressive gorge cutting through the Devistan-Rishikot ridge below the confluence of the North and South Rishi rivers. The Trisuli and Ramani glaciers are features of the lower Rishi Valley or 'Outer Sanctuary', below which the Rishi Ganga enters the narrow, steep-sided lower gorge (Lavkumar, 1979). The basin presents a diverse array of glacial and periglacial forms. The glaciers cover a wide spectrum of growth phases. The combinations of normal and perched glaciers on different rock types add interest to the basin (T.M. Reed, pers. comm., 1988). The greater part of the park falls within the Central Crystallines, a zone of young granites and metamorphic rocks. Along the northern edge is exposed the Tibetan-Tethys, consisting of sediments of sandstones, micaceous quartzite, limestones and shales (Kumar and Sah, 1986). The Tethys sediments form Nanda Devi itself and many of the surrounding peaks, and display spectacular folding and thrusting, while mountains like Changbang are granite (M. P. Searle, pers. comm., 1988). The crystalline rocks of the Vaikrita Group and lower part of the Tethys sediments have been tentatively subdivided into four formations, namely: Lata, Ramani, Kharapatal and Martoli (Maruo, 1979). Further geological details are given by Lamba (1987).

Climate Being an inner Himalayan valley, Nanda Devi Basin enjoys a distinctive microclimate. Conditions are generally dry with low annual precipitation, but there is heavy rainfall during the monsoon, from late June to August. Prevailing mist and low cloud during the monsoon keeps the soil moist, hence the lusher vegetation than is usually characteristic of drier inner Himalayan valleys. The basin is snow-bound for about six months of the year, snow being deeper and at lower altitudes on the southern side than the northern (Lavkumar, 1979; Lamba, 1987). Meteorological data are not available.

Vegetation Forests are restricted largely to the Rishi Gorge and are dominated by fir Abies pindrow, rhododendron Rhododendron campanulatum and birch Betula utilis up to about 3,350m. Forming a broad belt between these and the alpine meadows is birch forest, with an understorey of rhododendron. Conditions are drier within the 'Inner Sanctuary', becoming almost xeric up the main Nanda Devi glaciers. Beyond Ramani, the vegetation switches from forest to dry alpine communities, with scrub juniper Juniperus pseudosabina becoming the dominant cover within the 'Inner Sanctuary'. Juniper gives way altitudinally to grasses, prone mosses and lichens, and on riverine soils to annual herbs and dwarf willow Salix spp. Woody vegetation extends along the sides of the main glaciers before changing gradually to squat alpines and lichens (Lavkumar, 1979; Reed, 1979; Hajra, 1983a). A total of 312 species, distributed over 199 genera and 81 families, has been recorded and preserved in the herbarium of the Northern Circle, Botanical Survey of India. At least 17 of these are considered rare (Hajra, 1983a). Not included in this list is Saussurea sudhanshui, newly described from the area (Hajra, 1983b). A total of 773 plants has been reported from the proposed biosphere reserve (Indian National MAB Committee, n.d.), but this list is unreliable.

Fauna An account of the 14 known species of mammals is given by Tak and Lamba (1985) and Lamba (1987). The basin is renowned for the abundance of its ungulate populations, notably bharal Pseudois nayaur (Tilman, 1937) estimated to number 820 in 1977 (Lavkumar, 1979) and 440 in 1981-84 (Tak and Lamba, 1985; Lamba, 1987). Preliminary observations suggest that Himalayan musk deer Moschus chrysogaster, serow Capricornis sumatraensis and Himalayan tahr Hemitragus jemlahicus are also fairly common (Lavkumar, 1979; Tak and Lamba, 1985; Lamba, 1987), but probably not as plentiful as previously due to hunting (Dang, 1961). The distribution of goral Nemorhaedus goral does not appear to extend to within the basin, although the species does occur in the vicinity of the national park (Tak and Lamba, 1985; Lamba, 1987). Snow leopard Panthera uncia (E) is reported to have been "extraordinarily common" (Dang, 1961). This may reflect the relative ease with which the species is observed here and in the vicinity (Green, 1982), it being unlikely that the park supports a large snow leopard population because of its comparatively small size and the deep snow in winter (Green, 1988). Other large carnivores are leopard P. pardus (T), Himalayan black bear Selenarctos thibetanus (V) and brown bear Ursus arctos, which is rarely seen. The only primate present is common langur Presbytis entellus (Tak and Lamba, 1985; Lamba, 1987). Some 83 species are reported from the proposed biosphere reserve (Indian National MAB Committee, n.d.), but this list is unreliable.

Little has been documented about the avifauna. Reed (1979) recorded 43 species in the North Rishi Gorge. Here the major stronghold was the scrub juniper in which were warblers Phylloscopus spp., rubythroat Erithacus pectoralis, grosbeaks Mycerobas spp., redstarts Phoenicurus spp. and rose finches Carpodacus spp. A total of approximately 57 species was recorded within the park. Lamba (1987) lists 80 species for the area but the distribution of some of these is restricted to lower altitudes in adjacent areas. Some 546 species are reported from the proposed biosphere reserve (Indian National MAB Committee, n.d.), but this list is unreliable.

Cultural Heritage Nanda Devi, after Devi (meaning goddess), consort of Shiva, is a manifestation of Parvati and has been revered as a natural monument since ancient times (Reinhard, 1987). Hindus have deified the entire basin and every 12th year devotees have approached the foot of Trisul to worship Nanda Devi, the 'Blessed Goddess' (Kaur, 1982). The local people are Bhotias, those of Lata Village being Tolchas (Kandari, 1982).

Local Human Population The park is uninhabited but there are two small villages (Reni and Lata) on the north-western side. Local people used to bring more than 4,000 goats and sheep to Dharansi and Dibrugheta for grazing (Lavkumar, 1979) and derive an income from employment as porters and guides before the area was closed in 1983.

Visitors and Visitor Facilities The trek to Nanda Devi basecamp is considered to be one of the toughest in the world and has attracted large numbers of mountaineers and trekkers from all over the world (Lamba, 1987). There were an estimated 4,000 visitors (mostly expedition members and porters) in 1982 (Aitken, 1981-1982), but the park has since been closed. There are no facilities.

Scientific Research and Facilities A geological survey was conducted by Maruo (1979). Among the first published observations on the wildlife of Nanda Devi are those of Dang (1961), Lavkumar (1977, 1979) and, in the case of birds, Reed (1979). More recently, surveys of the flora and mammalian fauna have been carried out by the Botanical Survey of India (Hajra, 1983a) and Zoological Survey of India (Tak and Lamba, 1984, 1985; Lamba, 1987), respectively.

Conservation Value The area is reputedly one of the most spectacular wildernesses in the Himalaya. The basin is dominated by Nanda Devi, a natural monument and India's second highest peak, and drained by the Rishi Ganga which has cut for itself one of the finest gorges in the world (Shipton, 1936; Kaur, 1982). It supports a diverse flora, largely on account of the wide altitudinal range, and an interesting variety of large mammals, including a number of rare or threatened species. Unlike many other Himalayan areas, it is free from human settlement and has remained largely unspoilt due to its inaccessibility, particularly the forests of the lower Rishi Valley. Nanda Devi National Park meets criteria (iii) and (iv) of the World Heritage Convention based on its exceptional natural beauty and populations of rare and threatened mammals (IUCN Technical Evaluation).

Conservation Management Traditionally, the alpine pastures around Dharansi and Dibrugheta were grazed by livestock from Lata Village (and latterly from villages as far away as Malari) until the establishment of the park in 1982. The 'Inner Sanctuary' remained unexplored until 1934, when it was opened up to mountaineering. As a result, hunting, collection of medicinal plants and other forms of exploitation ensued. This part of the Himalaya was subsequently closed to foreign visitors from 1945 to 1974 (Lavkumar, 1979; Kaur, 1983). There followed a spate of mountaineering and trekking but, because of the considerable disturbance being caused to the environment (see Aitken, 1981, 1983), tourism was banned following a meeting held on 18 February 1983 under the chairmanship of the Chief Secretary of Uttar Pradesh.

A preliminary management plan has been prepared (Semwal and Asthana, 1986) but by 1988 this had not been sanctioned by the Chief Wildlife Warden. Included in the plan are recommendations concerning the present ban on tourism and ways in which to provide employment for local people. Nandi Devi was earmarked as one of several protected areas for inclusion under the Government of India's Project Snow Leopard (Ministry of Environment and Forests, 1987), but this project has not materialised to date. It has been recommended that the Pindari and Sundadhunga valleys at the southern edge of the Nanda Devi massif be designated a sanctuary to protect their reportedly large and viable ungulate and pheasant populations (Rodgers and Panwar, 1988).

Management Constraints Litter, felling of trees and even cultural vandalism caused by expeditions, along with the introduction of sheep and goats to the 'Inner Sanctuary', reached serious proportions prior to the closure of the park (Clarke, 1979; Aitken, 1981,1983). Virtually nothing is known about the present status of the wildlife within the park, although local people report that poachers from Pithoragarh District are operating in the 'Inner Sanctuary'. The two routes of access into the 'Inner Basin' used to be kept open by expeditions but have not been maintained by the park authorities since the ban on tourism. A few of the wildlife staff have been trained at the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi, but they lack the necessary mountaineering equipment to keep routes open.

Staff There is a total of 31 personnel, including four assistant wildlife wardens, and 22 wildlife guards, headed by a divisional forest officer (1987).

Budget Approximately Rs 10 lakhs in 1987/88

Local Addresses

Divisional Forest Officer, Nanda Devi National Park, Joshimath, Chamoli District, Uttar Pradesh

References

Aitken, W.M. (1981). The sad saga of Nanda Devi. Indian Wildlifer, New Delhi 1(4): 37-41..

Aitken, W.M. (1981-1982). Nanda Devi Sanctuary revisited, 1982. The Himalayan Journal 39: 44-50.

Aitken, B. (1983). Nanda Devi revisited - 1982. Sanctuary, Asia 3(1): 44-48.

Clarke, M.D. (1979). Ecological impact on the Nanda Devi area. The American Alpine Journal 53: 281.

Dang, H. (1961). A natural sanctuary in the Himalaya: Nanda Devi and the Rishiganga basin. Journal of the Bombay Natural History Society 58: 707-714.

Dang, H. (1967). The snow leopard and its prey. Cheetal, Journal of the Wildlife Preservation Society of India, Dehra Dun 10: 72-84.

Green, M.J.B. (1982). Status, distribution and conservation of the snow leopard in North India. International Pedigree Book of Snow Leopards 3: 6-10.

Green, M.J.B. (1988). Protected areas and snow leopards: their distribution and status. In: Freeman, H. (Ed.), Proceedings of the Fifth International Snow Leopard Symposium. International Snow Leopard Trust, Seattle and Wildlife Institute of India, Dehra Dun. Pp. 3-20.

Hajra, P.K. (1983a). A contribution to the botany of Nanda Devi National Park in Uttar Pradesh, India. Botanical Survey of India, Howrah. 38 pp.

Hajra, J. (1983b). A new species of Saussurea (Asteraceae) from Nandadevi National Park, Chamoli District, Uttar Pradesh. Indian Forester 109: 77-79.

Indian National MAB Committee (n.d.). The Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve. Project Document 3. Department of Environment, New Delhi. 128 pp.

Kandari, O.P. (1982). Nanda Devi - India's highest Himalayan national park: the problem of resource use and conservation. Cheetal, Journal of the Wildlife Preservation Society of India, Dehra Dun 24:29-36.

Kaur, J. (1982). Nanda Devi, Himalaya's superlative nature phenomenon. In: Singh, T.V., Kaur, J. and Singh, D.P. (Eds), Studies in tourism, wildlife parks, tourism. Metropolitan, New Delhi. Pp. 79-87.

Kumar, G. and Sah, S.C.D. (1986). Effects of changing environment on fauna and flora of Himalayan national parks - case studies of Corbett and Nanda Devi national parks. In: Corbett National Park Golden Jubilee Souvenir. Pp. 62-71.

Lamba, B.S. (1987). Status survey report of fauna: Nanda Devi National Park. Records of the Zoological Survey of India Occasional Paper No. 103. 50 pp.

Lavkumar, K. (1977). Report on the preliminary survey of the Nanda Devi Basin. WWF-India, Bombay. Unpublished. 27 pp.

Lavkumar, K. (1979). Nanda Devi Sanctuary-1977. Journal of the Bombay Natural History Society 75: 868-887.

Lavkumar, K. (1979). Nanda Devi Sanctuary - a naturalist's report. The Himalayan Journal 35: 191-209.

Maruo, Y. (1979). Geology and metamorphism of the Nanda Devi region Kumaon Higher Himalaya, India. Himalayan Geology, Wadia Institute of Himalayan Geology, Dehra Dun 9: 3-17.

Ministry of Environment and Forests (1987). Annual report 1986-87. Government of India, New Delhi. 73 pp.

Reed, T.M. (1979). A contribution to the ornithology of the Rishi Ganga Valley and the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. Journal of the Bombay Natural History Society 76: 275-282.

Reinhard, J. (1987). The sacred Himalaya. The American Alpine Journal 29: 123-132.

Semwal, D.N. and Asthana, J.S. (1986). Preliminary management plan report of Nanda Devi National Park. Nanda Devi National Park, Joshimath. Mimeo.

Shipton, E.E. (1936). Nanda Devi. Hodder and Stoughton, London. 310 pp.

Tak, P.C. and Lamba, B.S. (1984). Field observations on abundance of some smaller mammals at Nanda Devi National Park. Indian Journal of Forestry. 7: 242-244.

Tak, P.C. and Lamba, B.S. (1985). Nanda Devi National Park: a contribution to its mammalogy. Indian Journal of Forestry 8: 219-230.

Tilman, H. (1935). Nanda Devi and the sources of the Ganges. Himalayan Journal 7: 1-25.

Tilman, H.W. (1937). The ascent of Nanda Devi. Cambridge University Pres, Cambridge. 235 pp.

Date December 1987, updated July 1991