NAME Alborz-e-Markazy and Karaj Protected Areas

MANAGEMENT CATEGORY UA (Unassigned)

BIOGEOGRAPHICAL PROVINCE 2.34.12 (Caucaso-Iranian Highlands)

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION Situated in the central section of the Alborz Range, the protected area extends from just north of Tehran to just south of the Caspian Sea and lies to the east of the Tehran-Now Shahr road. The site abuts the ex Imperial Game Reserve and the Lar Protected Area to the south east. Approximately 36*15'N, 51*30'E

DATE AND HISTORY OF ESTABLISHMENT Established as Dasht-e-Nazir and Varvasht Protected Region on 14 January 1961. The site has been renamed and extended to the south on two occasions, 12 February 1962 (Kandavan) and 11 April 1964 (Alborz). In accordance with the 1974 Environmental Protection and Enhancement Act Alborz Protected Region became a Protected Area. Establishment of some form of special protection for the Hassanabad cypress stand has been proposed.

AREA 399,000ha (National Park)

LAND TENURE Government ownership excepting some privately-owned land in the valleys.

ALTITUDE Approximately sea level to 4,573m (Bar-e-Sang Kuh)

PHYSICAL FEATURES The Alborz Mountains consist of a thick stratigraphic sequence of limestones, shales, sandstones and tuffs. The age of these formations ranges from Cambrian to Tertiary. Palaeozoic formations cover a relatively large area. Along the southern slope, Eocene and lower Oligocene deposits consist of 3,000m of tuff beds with volcanic and intrusive rocks. Metomorphic and pre-eruptive rock of the pre-Devonian are widespread, with schists, marbles, amphybolite and granitic rocks in central Alborz (Dewan and Famouri, 1964; in FAO, 1971). The major features within the area are three east-west mountain massifs increasing in elevation from north to south. The northern most fronts the Caspian Plain and has a maximum elevation of 2,649m. It is cut by three rivers, the Galand, Kojur and Chalus, draining three east-west valleys that separate it from the central range. The central range is separated from the main Alborz Range to the south by the easterly-draining Nur River. Maximum elevation is 4,098m (Varvashat). The main Alborz Range reaches 4,573m, within the boundaries of the protected area. To the south are a series of disjointed ridges, peaks and canyons draining mainly into the Karadj and Jaje Rivers, which flow south towards the Dasht-e-Kavir (FAO, 1971).

Four soil types have been identified in the area. Brown soils occur on steep disected slopes. Generally acidic in the higher horizons and alkaline in the lower, they are present under deciduous forest. The calcareous lithosols of brown and chestnut soils occur on steep rough broken land. Soil development is minimal, most having been removed by erosion. Unweathered or only slightly weathered parent material, normally limestone, is exposed. Lithosols of brown forest soils and rendzinas are thin, covered by a 5-10cm layer of organic, dark brown material. Lithosols of brown soils and sienozem soils are present on igneous andmetamorphic rock. Surface textures vary from gravelly on the steeper gradients to loamy on more gentle terrain. Very little organic matter is present on the surface, usually less than 0.5% (FAO, 1971).

CLIMATE The Caspian climate prevails on the north-facing slopes of the northern most range; humidity is high and temperatures moderate with a long growing season. Valleys in the rain shadow to the south are dry and warm. The north-facing slopes of the central range are cooler and less moist than those of the northernmost range. The valley of the Nur River, in the rain shadow to the south of the central range, is again warm and dry, becoming more so as the elevation decreases to the east. The high mountains of the main Alborz range are cold, holding snow for all but the summer months and relatively dry. As elevation decreases to the south, the climate becomes drier and warmer. Mean annual temperatures in the south are between 10-15*C, less than 5-10*C in the high mountains and 10-15*C in the northern area under the Caspian influence. The mean daily maximum for the hottest month in the south is 25-35*C and in the mountain and Caspian areas less than 20-25*C and 25-35*C, respectively. The mean annual number of cloudy days for the south, high mountain and northern areas are 60-90, 90-150 and 150 to over 200, respectively (FAO, 1971).

VEGETATION Vegetation is diverse with Caspian forest to the north, a distinct high altitude flora and sub-steppic flora to the south. The north-facing slopes of the northern-most and central range support typical Caspian deciduous forest of beech Fagus orientalis, hornbeam Carpinus, maple Acer, lime Tilia, alder Alnus and oak Quercus castanaefolia. Ground flora is abundant and includes grasses, herbs, ferns, shrubs and saplings. Trees are generally smaller on the slopes of the central range and brushfields are more common. The thorny brushfields consist of Crataegus spp., Mespilus germanica, Berberis integerrima, Colutea persica, Prunus spp., Rosa sp., Rubus sp., and other shrubs. Above the timber line (3,000-3,300m) on the high plateaux of the central and main Alborz Range, perennial spiny cushion-like plants, adapted to the harsh environment, predominate. This flora shows affinities with the vegetation of the high mountains of the Hindu Kush, although there are a great number of endemics present. Species include Acantholimon echinus, A. gulistanum, Campanula sepulchralis, Astragalus pulchellus, A. chrysostachys, Onobrychis arnacantha, Gypsophylla aretoides, Androsacea pillosa, Dionista straussi and D. ceaspitosa. Grasses including Bromus, Agropyrum, Poa, Festuca and Oryzopsis molinioides, characteristic of the high dry mountains. Below 3,000m between the central and main Alborz Range and to the south of the Alborz, the climate is drier and sub-steppic vegetation predominates, except along waterways. There is evidence that in the past dense xerophilous forest existed of which only scattered Pistacia atlantica and Juniperus excelsa remain. Where rangelands have not been destroyed, Bromus-Festuca-Stipia associations predominate. Hordeum bulbosum is abundant in overgrazed rangeland. Perennial forage legumes consist mainly of Onobrychis and Astragalus spp. Modification of habitats through dry farming and overgrazing has resulted in the considerable extension of unpalateable and spiny species, tall Umbelliferae, Noae mucronata, Lactuca orientalis, Phlomis, Eryrgium, Cousinia, Astragalus and Acantholimon and perennial weeds. Dry fields and uncultivated lands are generally infested with Hulthemia pensica, Alhagi camelorum, Phlomis persica, Salvia syriaca, Achillea santolina, Consinia, Euphrobia and Centaurea spp..

A fine stand of cypress Cupressus sempervirens is present at Hassanabad ajoining the Chalus river (FAO, 1971).

FAUNA Mammals present include leopard Panthera pardus (T), jungle cat Felis chaus,wolf Canis lupis (V), jackal C. aureus, red fox Vulpes vulpes, pine and beech marten Martes martes and M. fonia, otter Lutra lutra (V), brown bear Ursus arctos, wild pig Sus scrofa, red deer Cervus elaphus, roe deer Capreolus capreolus, mountain gazelle Gazella gazella (V), goitred gazelle G. subgutturosa, ibex Capra aegagrus, wild sheep Ovis ammon (I) and cape hare Lepus capensis (FAO, 1971). The avifauna includes a variety of high Alborz and Caspian forest species, such as honey buzzard Pernis apivorus, red kite Milvus milvus, booted eagle Hieraaetus pennatus, short-toed eagle Circaetus gallicus, Caspian snowcock Tetrogallus caspius, black woodpecker Oryocopus martius, Alpine chough Pyrrhocorax graculus, dunnock Prunella modularis, ring ouzel Turdus torquatus, wall creeper Tichodroma muraria and pine bunting Emberiza leucocephala (Scott, 1976). Fish include trout Salmo trutta (FAO, 1971).

CULTURAL HERITAGE Numerous centuries-old shrines are scattered throughout the park. Ancient ruins include a fortress village perched high in the cliffs above Baladeh and two walled-up caves and the low walls of a structure in the middle of the sheer cliff face in the upper Galand River valley. An old ab-bandan (man-made pond) lies off the Kodir-Narenjakbon track (FAO, 1971).

LOCAL HUMAN POPULATION About 210 villages lie within the protected area. Some are quite large, over 1,000 inhabitants, and others consist of a couple of houses only. All villages lie below 3,000m, most situated along rivers and in the more fertile areas. Over the centuries all the land that can be tilled has been developed for one form of agriculture or another. Barley and wheat are grown on valley floors and mountain sides, rice paddies have been terraced out of steep hillsides where soil and water meet requirements, and there are extensive walnut and poplar orchards to the south. Prior to establishment of the protected area, livestock grazing was heavy and uncontrolled. Resident domestic sheep, goats and cattle still graze. A large number of dairy cattle are found in the forest. Herdsmen make butter, yoghurt and various dairy by-products in rough structures "gav-khanehs" (cow houses) scattered throughout the forest. Coal is mined in three areas, at Galandrud, Elika and between Gachsar to the west and Garmabdar to the east. Two mines above Kalavanka produce lead and barite. Logging for timber and charcoal was carried out over 21,898 ha of forest in 1971 (FAO, 1971).

VISITORS AND VISITOR FACILITIES There are ski areas with lifts at Dizin and Shemshak. Accommodation includes a 50-room hotel at Dizin, a 35-room hotel 10km down the road at Gachsar, and two small hotels, with 36 rooms between them at Shemshak. At times there may be up to 2,000 people on the slopes at Dizin. The Iran Ski Federation plans to extend slopes and facilities at both sites. Karadj Reservoir provides fishing to the public and boating, water skiing and swimming to members and guests of the yacht club. There are 40-50 boats on the water. A 30-room hotel was under construction near the yacht club during 1971 to be completed in 1972. Forest parks adjoining or nearby central Alborz have facilities for campers and week-end picnicers, including lighting, water, tables, parking spaces and barbecues (FAO, 1971).

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH AND FACILITIES Research and studies undertaken include a soil survey by Dewan and Famouri (1964), an investigation of vegetation by Zohary (1963) and Tregubov and Mobayen (1970) and of mammals by Lay (1967) and birds by Scott (1976). The central Alborz was included in an investigation of red deer habitats in the Caspian Forest Zone by Bindernagel (1978). Limited accommodation is avaliable forscientists in game guard stations (IUCN, 1977).

CONSERVATION MANAGEMENT Relict Caspian forest of the Front range remains undisturbed due to the ruggedness of the terrain and its relative inaccessibility. The main Alborz and central ranges support a wide variety of game species, including Persian ibex and wild sheep. Grazing controls have been applied since establishment as a protected region. All migratory livestock have been excluded and residential livestock has to be covered by an annual grazing permit. Numbers are restricted to what is judged to be the carrying capacity of a particular area. Grazing is not permitted above 3,000m, marks have been painted to identify that elevation. The restriction is generally observed. Goats are limited to a few within each flock of sheep. Animals on the south side of the Alborz must be stabled over winter. Additional protection has been extended to the catchment area of the Kanadj Reservoir in an attempt to reduce siltation. Forestry occurs under permit. Mining of valuable minerals, coal, lead and barite, is permitted. Extraction of more common minerals, sand, gravle, lime or chalk, however, is excluded. Ten-year permits, extendable to 50 years, are issued by the government. Hunting is prohibited unless a special licence is obtained from the Department of the Environment. Bag, size of party and number of days spent hunting are limited. Fishing is allowed on the Karadj Reservoir, and the protected Karadj and Lar Rivers. The season on the Karadj River is 21 March - 22 August. The Lar is open from 22 May - 22 August. Catch is limited to 20 trout per day and bait may not be used unless the water is muddy. The area of cypress at Hassanabad is fenced to exclude livestock. Contruction of a visitor centre and a planting programme were planned in 1971.

MANAGEMENT PROBLEMS Grazing is carried out above the 3,000m mark on occasion. Substantial trespass occurs on the central range where the heights are easily accessible. Cattle in the Caspian forest destroy wildlife, food, plants and the herdsmen's exclusive use of wood for shelter construction, tools and fuel results in destruction of woodland habitat. Further damage is sustained through logging which, while not destructive to wildlife habitat except at higher altitudes where regeneration is slow, materially alters the forest and is associated with access road construction, opening up areas to increased disturbance. The upper end of the Karadj Reservoir, a muddy delta undergoing constant siltation, is heavily polluted carrying wastes from the many villages and fields in the larger watershed above. Plans to construct dams on the Lar River threaten trout. The proposed expansion of tourism within the park may result in damage unless carefully planned and controlled (FAO, 1971).

STAFF No recent information

BUDGET No recent information

LOCAL ADMINISTRATION No information

REFERENCES

Bindernagel, J.A. (1978). Assistance in wildlife conservation and management: red deer management and land-use conflicts in the Caspian Forest zone of Iran. FAO and Department of the Environment, Tehran.

Devan, M.L. and Famouri, J. (1964). The soils of Iran. FAO, Rome. 139 pp.

FAO (1971). Management plan for the Central Alborz Protected Region. FAO, Rome. 47 pp.

IUCN (1977). A world directory of national parks and other protected areas. IUCN.Morges, Switzerland. Pp IRA (1) 2.7.

Lay, D.M. (1967). A study of the mammals of Iran resulting from the street expedition of 1962-63. Fieldiana: Zoology 54. Field Museum of Natural History. 282 pp.

Scott, D.A. (1976). The avifauna of the Department's Reserves: Project Completion Report. Ornithology Unit, Division of Parks and Wildlife, Tehran. Pp. 6-7.

Tregubov, V. and Mobayen, S. (1970). Guide pour la carte de la vegetation naturalle de l'Iran. Universite de Tehran. Project UNDP/FAO IRA 7, Bulletin No. 14:36

Zohary, M. (1963). On the geobotanical structure of Iran. Bulletin of the Research Council of Israel, Section D, Botany, Volume 11D:113

DATE May 1989

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