Protected Areas and World Heritage Programme

AREA 492 sq.km.

POPULATION 13,873 (1986 census); 14,106 (1988 estimate).

The Republic of Palau, situated between latitudes 6^o53' and 8^o12'N and longitudes 134^o08' and 134^o44'E, is located at the extreme western edge of the Caroline Islands. The archipelago lies about 800 km north of the equator, 740 km east of the Philippine Islands and 6,000 km southwest of Hawaii. It consists of approximately 350 islands including several high islands formed by Eocene volcanic activity and numerous low and raised coral and coralline limestone islands and islets. The islands are encircled by barrier, fringing and patch reefs with inner and outer reef flats. The barrier is some 450 km in length and encompasses a lagoon with an area of about 1,450 sq.km. The barrier reef is particularly well developed on the western side, where it is up to 2.5 km in width. The reef systems of the Palau Islands are considered to be the richest in the Pacific, with the highest species diversity (UNEP/IUCN, 1988).

With an area of 367 sq.km, Babeldaob is by far the largest island in the archipelago, comprising about three quarters of the total land mass. This island, parts of neighbouring Koror (9.3 sq.km) and a few small islands in the vicinity of Koror are of volcanic origin, and are characterized by rolling, forested hills, coastal bottomlands and tidal flats with mangrove forest. The maximum elevation on Babeldaob is about 240 m. All other islands are of more recent limestone formation. Two large islands in the south, Peleliu (12.7 sq.km) and Angaur (8.4 sq.km), are raised coral platforms with jagged hills and level coastal areas. The famous Rock Islands of Palau are extremely steep, coralline limestone islands, typically undercut along the water's edge. They occupy the area from Koror south to Peleliu, and include the large islands of Ngerukdabel (19.0 sq.km) and Mecherchar (8.8 sq.km).

Palau has a humid maritime tropical climate with only slight seasonal variations. The mean annual temperature on Koror, the capitol, is 27^oC, with a mean diurnal range of about 7^oC. The average annual rainfall is 3,730 mm. Rainfall varies little from month to month, although February, March and April are slightly drier than the average. The relative humidity averages about 90% at night and 75-80% during the day. Although Palau lies outside the main paths of severe tropical disturbances and typhoons, such storms with high winds occasionally hit the islands.

The Palau Islands had been settled for nearly 2,000 years before contact with European traders and missionaries in the 17th and 18th centuries. Spain claimed sovereignty over the Caroline Islands, including Palau, in 1885, but maintained only loose reign until 1899, when the islands were sold to Germany. Germany lost its Micronesian possessions after World War I, when Japan was entrusted with a mandate over Palau. Following World War II, the U.S. was given responsibility for Palau as a Trust Territory. The Republic of Palau was established as a constitutional democratic government in January 1981, and in February 1986, Palau and US Government representatives formally signed a Compact of Free Association. However, this has yet to be approved, and Palau remains a remnant of the former Trust Territory of the Pacific (IUCN, 1991).

There is relatively little agriculture in Palau, and this is primarily for subsistence purposes. Major crops include cassava, taro, sweet potatoes, bananas, papayas, coconuts and a variety of vegetables. The economy is based on fishing, tourism and aid.

Although the Palauan islands at one time may have been completely covered with native forest, they are now only 75% forest (Cole et al., 1987). Most of the remaining land is classed as grassland, agro-forest or secondary vegetation. Almost all of the agro-forest and secondary vegetation was once forested land, but the origins of the grasslands are less certain. During the Japanese Administration (1914-1945), large areas in southern Babeldaob were cleared of native forest for pineapple and sugar cane fields. During the same period, bauxite mining in Ngardmau State on the northwest coast destroyed native forest.

The wetlands of the Republic of Palau have been described in some detail by Stemmermann and Proby (1978). These authors identified 84 wetlands, and suggested that there may be more, as they were unable to survey most of the rock islands. The 84 sites included the following:

Stemmermann and Proby (1978) considered two sites to be of great interest and worthy of special protection: an area of mangrove forest and swamp forest in Ngeremeduu (Ngatpang) Bay on Babeldaob; and a unique stand of Bruguiera in a depression on Mecherchar Island.

Lakes and marshes are limited in Palau. There are only two natural freshwater lakes of any size; Ngardok and Ngerkall. Both are on Babeldaob and are relatively small and remote. The "marine lakes" of Palau are mostly land-locked, saltwater lakes on some of the high limestone islands, with a distinctive but very limited fauna. Artificial lakes and ponds include one reservoir (a water supply for Koror), water-filled bomb craters on Babeldaob and abandoned, flooded phosphate pits on Angaur and Peleliu (Engbring & Suzuki, 1988).

Freshwater marshes occur in areas just slightly above sea level and surrounded by mangroves, along most of the larger perennial streams and in depressions in upland areas. The vegetation of these marshes includes tall reeds, especially Phragmites karka, sedges and other taller herbaceous growth. Where the water is somewhat brackish, the fern Acrostichum aureum may be present. Over 130 ha of freshwater marsh are cultivated for taro, and here the edible vine Ipomoea aquatica may be found (Cole et al., 1987).

Saline marshes generally occur along the coast near mangroves or in depressions in sand or mud flats. Most areas of saline marsh are tiny, although there is one patch of 0.4 ha on Ngebad Island. Common species include Cyperus javanicus, Derris trifoliata (especially at the edge of mangroves), Eleocharis geniculata, Fimbristylis cymosa, Lippia nodiflora, Paspalum distichum and Vigna marina. A number of woody species characteristic of coastal sand dunes, swamp forests and mangroves may surround or be sparsely scattered in the marshes (Cole et al., 1987).

Swamp forests occur where soils are inundated with fresh or slightly brackish water. The most common habitat for such forests is in low-lying areas, just inland of mangroves and above tidal influence. The coastal lowland swamps of Palau are generally quite disturbed, with Hibiscus tiliaceus being a common component after disturbance. Taro cultivation is a common competing land use for these swamp areas, and is probably the main reason for the clearing of swamp forest (Cole et al., 1987).

Species common to swamps on the landward side of mangroves and along rivers include Horsfieldia amklaal, Cynometra ramiflora, Calophyllum soulattri, Barringtonia racemosa, Heritiera littoralis, Samadera indica and, in its understorey, Stemonurus ammui. The climbing vine Derris trifoliata is commonly found growing on trees. A swamp forest association typical of low areas with impeded drainage is the Horsfieldia amklaal, Barringtonia racemosa and Donax canniformis type. This type of swamp forest occurs in coastal areas and also quite commonly along streams in the interior hills of Babeldaob. Remnants of swamp forest on Peleliu are dominated by Barringtonia racemosa and Terminalia catappa. On Angaur, Barringtonia racemosa, Hibiscus tiliaceus and Areca catechu (betelnut) grow in a swampy area near the airstrip (Cole et al., 1987).

Extensive mangrove forest grows around much of Babeldaob, and to a lesser extent around Koror, Peleliu and some of the smaller offshore islands. The mangroves of Babeldaob Island are well developed, especially on the south and southwest coasts, and all but 32 km of the island's 157 km of coastline are bounded by mangroves. Ten species of mangrove have been recorded (Woodroffe, 1987), with well developed stands reaching 15-20 m in height. Sonneratia alba and Rhizophora mucronata are dominant on the seaward side of the mangroves (Stemmermann and Proby, 1978). At the mouths of larger rivers and around bays, Rhizophora mucronata and R. apiculata grow in pure stands or mixed with Sonneratia and some Bruguiera gymnorrhiza, while on the landward side of the mangroves, the species mix may include Lumnitzera littorea and Xylocarpus granatum. In the upper parts of estuaries, Rhizophora spp. are rare; Sonneratia remains common and Bruguiera, Xylocarpus and Lumnitzera become common. Heritiera littoralis is found along the landward side of mangroves and upstream, while B. gymnorrhiza has been found growing inland in totally enclosed sink-holes in limestone areas. Stands of Nypa fruticans occur along the lower portions of some rivers and at their mouths (Cole et al., 1987).

There is a small stand of mangroves in Kayangel Atoll, along the shore of a saltwater pond in the interior of a small islet adjacent to Kayangel Island proper. This stand of Bruguiera and Rhizophora trees was planted by the Palau Department of Agriculture and Forestry in the mid 1970s (Cole et al., 1987).

____________________________________________________________________________

Table 1: Area of Wetland Vegetation in the Republic of Palau

____________________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________________

After Cole et al. (1987).

Wetland birds include the Yellow Bittern (Ixobrychus sinensis), Rufous Night-Heron (Nycticorax caledonicus), Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis), Pacific Reef-Heron (Egretta sacra), Grey Duck (Anas superciliosa), Banded Rail (Rallus philippensis), Slaty-legged Crake (Rallina eurizonoides), White-browed Crake (Porzana cinerea), Purple Swamphen (Porphyrio porphyrio) and Common Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus). As freshwater habitats are limited, most of the freshwater species are uncommon, and the Grey Duck and Common Moorhen are in danger of extinction in the islands (Engbring & Suzuki, 1988).

Situated only 740 km from the east coast of Mindanao in the Philippines, the islands of Palau are easily reached by migrant shorebirds in the East Asian/Australasian flyway, and many species using this flyway have been recorded during the migration seasons. The commoner migrants include Pacific Golden Plover (Pluvialis fulva), Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola), Grey-tailed Tattler (Heteroscelus brevipes), Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos), Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus), Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres) and Rufous-necked Stint (Calidris ruficollis) (Engbring & Suzuki, 1988).

Formerly widespread, the Estuarine Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) was almost exterminated in the Palau Islands by Australian hunters following an incident in which a tourist was injured. However, the species is now recovering under protection, although most of the individuals are small and extremely secretive. Amphibians include an endemic species of ranid frog (Dahl, 1986) and the introduced toad Bufo marinus.

In general, Palau's natural environments, including wetlands, remain in good condition, partly due to the low population density. In recent years, less wetland taro is being grown, and this has resulted in a loss of some prime habitat for rails and other waterbirds (Engbring & Suzuki, 1988). Unplanned development on the island of Koror is also a cause for concern. Nearly all birds are fully protected by local law, but with an increase in guns and speed boats and the simultaneous decline in the authority of the chiefs, illegal hunting is becoming more common and could pose a threat to some species of waterbirds.

Detailed vegetation maps of Palau have been prepared by the Forest Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture, in cooperation with the Government of Palau (Cole et al., 1987), and these provide information on the extent and composition of the mangrove forests, freshwater swamp forests, freshwater marshes and saline marshes. The Forest Service has also carried out an inventory of the timber resources of Babeldaob which includes information on the mangrove and swamp forests (MacLean et al., 1988). Information on the extremely rich and diverse reef systems has recently been summarized by UNEP/IUCN (1988). The birds of Palau are relatively well known, and an excellent field guide has been prepared by Engbring and Suzuki (1988).

There are two scientific laboratories in the Republic of Palau: one for marine scientists and the other shared by the Office of Conservation Management and the Entomological Office.

Prior to 1981, some United States federal legislation and Trust Territory legislation was applicable. This included the Trust Territory Endangered Species Act (1975) which protects listed species and allows for the acquisition of land or water for the purpose of conserving threatened species. Other Trust Territory Acts and US legislation relevant to nature conservation and the environment in Palau have been summarized by IUCN (1991).

The Palau National Code makes various provisions for the protection of species and establishment of protected areas. Section 202 of the Code protects most bird species and their eggs, section 203 protects Dugongs (Dugong dugon) and section 206 creates a Fish and Game Commission (Dahl, 1980). Sections 3001 to 3004 provide for the creation, prohibitions, penalties and regulations relating to Ngerukewid Islands Wildlife Preserve. This preserve, established by District Order in 1956, is the only legally established and perennially protected natural area in the Republic of Palau. Also known as the "Seventy Islands", the Ngerukewid Islands are an outlier of the "Rock Islands" comprising a cluster of 37 limestone islands, islets and rock pinnacles which rise steeply from the surrounding lagoon waters. The total area of the preserve is 1,200 ha of which the islands comprise only 90 ha (Thomas et al., 1989). There is no surface freshwater in the islands, and the only wetlands are two tiny patches of mangroves.

Other sections in the Palau Code provide for the protection of Ngerumekaol Channel as a spawning ground for groupers from April 1 to July 31 every year. There are also a number of State Ordinances which provide for the establishment of Trochus sanctuaries, some 21 of which have been established by the various states (IUCN, 1991).

The Republic of Palau has signed but not yet ratified the Convention for the Protection of the Natural Resources and Environment of the South Pacific (the SPREP Convention). Palau is not, however, as yet a party to the Unesco Man and the Biosphere Programme, Ramsar Convention or World Heritage Convention, nor has it signed or ratified the Convention on the Conservation of Nature in the South Pacific or the Convention on Biological Diversity.

Management of recreation areas and historical sites falls under the Bureau of Community Services in the Ministry of Social Services, while that of conservation areas such as the Ngerukewid Islands Wildlife Preserve falls under the Bureau of Resources and Development in the Ministry of National Resources. Enforcement of the laws pertaining to these areas remains with the Bureau of Public Safety in the Ministry of Justice (Bureau of Resources and Development, 1989). A Division of Conservation and Entomology has been created within the Bureau of Resources and Development, with a broad remit to prepare conservation programmes and pest control and entomological activities (IUCN, 1991). This agency has not, however, as yet been involved directly with wetlands.

Bureau of Resources and Development, Ministry of National Resources.

Site descriptions compiled by Demei O. Otobed of the Division of Conservation and Entomology, Bureau of Resources and Development. The eight sites described below are the principal wetlands on the main island of Babeldaob. Many other smaller wetlands exist in the islands, and further study may reveal a number of these to be of international importance.