| COUNTRY United
Kingdom
NAME Gough Island Wildlife Reserve
IUCN MANAGEMENT CATEGORY
Gough Island Widlife Reserve Ia (Strict Nature Reserve)
Natural World Heritage Site - Criteria iii, iv
Extension to site to include Inaccessible Island accepted
2004
BIOGEOGRAPHICAL PROVINCE Insulantarctica 7.04.09
GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION
Gough Island lies in the South Atlantic Ocean about 350km south-southeast
of Tristan da Cunha and Inaccessible Island at 40°19'29"S x 9°55'43"W.
Inaccessible Island is located 45km south-west of Tristan da Cunha and
350km north-northwest of Gough Island at 37°18'S x 12°41' W.
DATE AND HISTORY OF ESTABLISHMENT
| 1938: |
Gough Island proclaimed a British possession
in 1938 as part of the Overseas Territory of Tristan da Cunha, part
of the Crown Colony of St Helena |
| 1950: |
Land birds on Gough Island protected under the Tristan
da Cunha Wildlife Protection Ordinance; |
| 1976: |
Gough Island, its islets and territorial waters
to 3 nautical miles (nm), in 1977 extended to 12nm (22 km), designated
a Wildlife Reserve under the Tristan da Cunha Conservation Ordinance; |
| 1983: |
Waters within 200 nm (370 km) of the islands are
protected by the Fishery Limits Ordinance; |
| 1997: |
Inaccessible Island and its territorial waters out
to 12nm was designated a Nature Reserve under the same Conservation
Ordinance; |
| 2001: |
The 200nm protected zone around the Tristan da Cunha
and Gough Island group declared a whale sanctuary; |
AREA
The site extends over a total area of 397,900 ha, comprising: Gough Island:
6,500ha; marine buffer: 230,000ha (12km extension) Inaccessible Island:
1,400ha; marine buffer: 160,000ha (12km extension).
LAND TENURE Crown estate. Both islands are administered
by the Island Council of Tristan da Cunha. A meteorological station in
the southeast of Gough Island is leased to the South African government.
ALTITUDE Seabed to 910m (Gough Island.); to
± 600m (Inaccessible Island).
PHYSICAL FEATURES
The Tristan da Cunha Islands and Gough Island are part of a chain of South
Atlantic volcanic sea-mounts on the east slope of the mid-Atlantic ridge.
Gough is the mountainous island summit of a Tertiary volcanic mass separated
from the formations of the Tristan group. The island is mountainous, with
dramatically steep cliffs forming much of the coastline, and an undulating
plateau rising up 910m above sea level. The eastern side of the island
is dissected by a series of deep, steep-sided valleys known as glens,
which are separated by narrow, serrated ridges. The western side of the
island consists of rounded slopes, extending from the central plateau
to western sea cliffs. The southern area of the island is the only land
below 200m in height. Boulder beaches are found beneath the cliffs, and
there are numerous offshore islets, stacks and rocks - most within 100m
of the main island, and none at a distance greater than one kilometre.
The largest stacks support vascular plants and breeding birds.
Inaccessible Island is a 2-3 million year old remnant of a far larger
much eroded volcano, material from which has built up a wide submarine
plateau. It was a shield volcano of thin basaltic flows interleaved with
ash and scoria overlaid in places by later volcanic domes, plugs and dykes.
The island is a 5.7 by 4.6km undulating plateau rising from 200m in the
east to 500m in the west above a line of steep cliffs punctuated by waterfalls.
The soil is undeveloped and coarse, mostly covered by a thick layer of
peat and, in the wet climate, often slumps downslope (Ryan & Glass,2001).
CLIMATE The islands have a cool-temperate oceanic
climate, and lie on the edge of the roaring forties, a seasonally oscillating
belt of strong westerly winds south of 40°S. Mean temperatures at sea
level are 11.3°C (Gough) and 14.5°C (Tristan) with little seasonal variation.
Extreme temperatures at sea level vary from -3°C to 25°C (Gough) and 3°C
to 24°C (Tristan). The mean daily temperature variation is 4-5°C, with
a mean relative humidity of 80%. Snow may fall on the peaks of Gough between
May and January, but rarely occurs at sea level. In association with cyclonic
depressions, frontal precipitation falls throughout the year. Mean annual
precipitation near sea level is 3116mm (Gough) and 1671mm (Tristan) with
more falling in winter. The cloud base is typically between 300-500m,
although it occasionally descends to sea level. The mean wind speed is
12 m/s-1 (Tristan 10 m/s-1), with stronger winds in winter. Gales blow
on 5% of summer days and on 15% (Gough) and 10% (Tristan) of winter days.
Wind speed increases with altitude, and is exceptionally strong on exposed
ridges (Cooper & Ryan, 1992; Ryan & Glass, 2001).
The temperature of the seas surrounding Inaccessible Island increases
by some 4° in summer, influenced by the movement of the Subtropical Convergence
from north to south of the island. It is more often on the south so the
waters are usually subtropical and the heated summer layer which is confined
by a thermocline at 50m promotes the growth of phytoplankton.
VEGETATION The flora of both islands is typical
of southern cold-temperate oceanic islands with relatively low species
diversity, and a large preponderance of ferns and cryptogams. On Gough
Island there are 36 flowering species of which 21 are endemic to the
Tristan-Gough Island group and four are restricted to Gough. 27 species
of fern are known from the island of which 15 are endemic to the Tristan–Gough
group. A large number of bryophytes and lichens are known but not described
in detail. Only four alien species are widespread on the island, but the
integrity of the ecosystem has recently been threatened by the invasion
of an alien groundcover, procumbent pearlwort Sagina procumbens.
This very quickly forms dense mats on disturbed ground such as birds’
burrows, peat slips and around the settlement and competes strongly with
existing vegetation (Gremmen & Barendse, 2000).
The vegetation on Gough Island varies markedly with
changes with altitude and microclimate (Wace, 1961). Two-meter high tussock
grassland, dominated by Spartina arundinacea and tussac grass Parodiochloa
flabellata is restricted to areas where salt spray is regular, and
it is found on offshore stacks, sea cliffs and adjacent slopes. It extends
300m up seaward facing slopes on the exposed western side of the island,
and to approximately 100m on the more sheltered eastern side. Extending
from tussock grassland to approximately 500m is a dense vegetation of
fernbush. This is dominated by bat’s wing fern Histiopteris incisa,
characterised by the hard or Gough tree fern Blechnum palmiforme,
and is more extensive on the eastern side of the island and in southern
downland areas. This vegetation type is approximately one metre high,
occasionally interrupted by the shrubby island tree Phylica arborea.
From the upper limits of fernbush communities, wet heath is the dominant
vegetation type to 800m. This is a diverse community of ferns, sedges,
grasses, angiosperms and mosses and is dominated by B. palmiforme,
crowberry Empetrum rumbrum, grasses and sedges. Above 600m,
peat bogs are widespread. These sodden bogs are 5 meters deep in valleys
and are dominated by Sphagnum mosses. Fuegian arrowgrass Tetroncium
magellanicium and mossy deergrass Scirpus spp. are the only
abundant vascular plants found in bogs, although bog margins show a wider
diversity, including various grasses. From 600m, feldmark and montane
rock communities are found. These consist of cushion-forming or crevice
plants, found on exposed areas such as ridges (Oldfield, 1994).
The marine area around Gough Island can be split into
two distinct algal zones. From sea level to 5m depth, algae consists mainly
of bull kelp Durvillea antarctica, and beyond 20m is dominated
by Laminaria pallida and giant kelp Macrocystis pyrifera. Forty
species of algae are recorded (Chamberlain et al. 1985), of which
two species are endemic to Gough.
On Inaccessible Island there are 213 native species
of plants, eight being known only from the island. 60 of the 136 species
and 35 of the 46 vascular plants restricted to the Tristan group are also
found there, including all ten endemic species. One of these is the pepper
tree, an endemic subspecies Peperomia berteroanatristanensis,
found in one locality only. Endemism is highest in grasses,
ferns and mosses. As with Gough the vegetation is graded by height and
exposure. Dense high tussock grass dominates all the coastal lowlands
and cliffs up to 200-500m except in marshes where the pennywort Hydrocotyle
capitata is common and on the drier western slopes which are dominated
by tree fern Blechnum penna-marina heath. Scattered within the
grassland are occasional Phylica arborea trees. Landslips
are colonised by both introduced and native species such as southern wild
celery Apium australe. Most of the plateau is covered by fernbush.
The lower eastern half is dominated by Phylica arborea in a low
3-5m canopy supporting a dense growth of lichens and mosses where damp.
The understorey where open is dense with ferns. The higher western half
is dominated by bogfern Blechnum palmiforme between 0.5 –1m
high. The Phylica here are wind-cropped down to 0.5m. Above this
on the high western edge of the plateau is narrow belt of wet heath of
low tree ferns and a considerable diversity of species: celery, sedges,
grasses and mosses. There are two bog communities: Sphagnum cf,recurvum
on both plateau and lowland and Scirpus sulcatus on the plateau
which is perpetuated by the burrowing of the endemic spectacled petrel
Procellaria conspicillata. There are 27 alien species, mostly colonising
disturbed ground. Only two, velvet grass Holcus lanatus and New
Zealand flax Phormium tenax are presently any in danger of growing
out of control. Offshore, shallow waters are turfed with short tufty seaweeds,
deeper water is dominated by the kelp Laminaria pallida and coralline
algae. The giant kelp Macrocystus pyrifera growing between 8 and
40 meters, creates a characteristic zone of calmer water around much of
the island (Ryan & Glass,2001).
FAUNA
Gough Island has been described as a strong contender for the
title "most important seabird colony in the World" (Bourne,
1981), with 54 bird species recorded in total, of which 22 species breed
on the island, 20 being seabirds. Four species are threatened. There are
three endmic genera .About 48% of the world's population of northern rockhopper
penguin Eudyptes chrysocome moseleyi (VU) breed on Gough (Jouventin,1982).
Atlantic petrel Pterodroma incerta (VU) is endemic to Gough and
the Tristan group of islands. Gough is also a major breeding site of the
great shearwater Puffinus gravis with up to three million pairs
breeding on the island. The main southern ocean breeding sites of little
shearwater Puffinus assimilis are Tristan da Cunha and Gough Island,
with breeding pairs numbering several million (Richardson,1984). Wandering
albatross Diomedea dabbenena (EN) is virtually restricted to Gough,
with up to 2,000 breeding pairs (Cooper, in litt. 1993). The last
survivors of the southern giant petrel Macronectes gigantous (VU)
also breed on Gough, with an estimated 100-150 pairs (Bourne, in litt.
1993). Gough moorhen Gallinula comeri (VU) is found in fern
bush vegetation areas. Estimates of population size vary from 300-500
pairs (Richardson, 1984) to 2000-3000 pairs (Watkins & Furness, 1986).
About 200 pairs of Gough finch Rowettia goughensis (VU) have been
recorded, although recent estimates suggest that there may be 1000 pairs
(Oldfield, 1994).
Subantarctic fur seal Arctocephalus tropicalis
(200,000 individuals and increasing), and southern elephant seal Mirounga
leonina (about 100 individuals) are the only two native breeding mammals.
The former breed at beaches all round the island, while the latter are
restricted to the island's sheltered east coast (Bester, 1990). Two other
marine mammals are found within the reserve, namely southern right whale
Eubalaena glacialis australis (EN) and dusky dolphin Lagenorhynchus
obscurus and the rarely seen Shepherd’s whale Tasmacetus shepherdi
has been reported. Reptiles, amphibians, freshwater fish and native
terrestrial mammals are absent from the island, although the introduced
house mouse Mus musculus is widespread and abundant, posing some
threat to birds. 100 free-living species of terrestrial invertebrates
have been recorded but have been poorly studied. An additional 24 parasitic
invertebrate species have been found on vertebrate hosts on the island.
At least eight free-living invertebrate species are endemic to Gough,
and an additional 14 species are restricted to Gough and the Tristan group
of islands (Holdgate, 1965). Only eight species of freshwater invertebrate
are known (Holdgate, 1959/60). Most littoral species found at Gough are
widespread on other Southern Ocean islands, and 79 invertebrate species
have been recorded (Chamberlain et al., 1985). Limpets and bivalves
are absent from the littoral and subtidal zones. Sea urchins Arbacia
dufresnii are abundant in the marine area, as are whelks Argobuccinun
sp., chitons, starfishes, sea anemones, bryzoans, barnacles, slipper
limpets, nudibranchs and sponges. Twenty coastal fish species have been
recorded (Andrew et al.,1994) and other important marine species
include Tristan rock lobster Jasus tristani (from close inshore
to 400m depth around Gough), and octopus Octopus vulgaris. Both
are economically exploited by fishermen under close regulation.
On Inaccessible Island the terrestrial fauna,
like the flora, has relatively low diversity but a high degree of endemism.
There are no land mammals, reptiles, amphibians or freshwater fish. A
number of birds and insects are flightless and there are no alien species
except for invertebrates, although in the past pigs, goats, sheep and
cattle were all introduced. The two marine mammals found on land are the
subantarctic fur seals Arctocephalus tropicalis and southern elephant
seals Mirounga leonina. Both were abundant until sealing started
at the end of the 18 th century and were locally almost exterminated within
a hundred years. Elephant seals remain rare, but fur seals have returned,
numbering 150 bulls and 500 cows over less than half the coastline in
the summer of 1999. Offshore, southern right whales Eubalaena australis
(EN), which were also decimated during the 19 th century, false
killer whales Pseudorca crassidens, humpback whales Megaptera
novaeangliae, Tasmanian beaked whales Tasmocetus sheperdi and
dusky dolphins Lagenorhyncus obscurus have all been sighted. Terrestrial
invertebrates have been little studied, although 58 free living species
are recorded, 10 being endemic and over 20 introduced. 12 parasitic species
have also been found, and two examples of adaptive radiation on the islands,
among drosophilid flies and weevils (Ryan & Glass,2001). The marine
and littoral environments are even less well known. About 258 species
are known, including five seaweeds which may be restricted to the island
and 60 recorded species which are endemic to the Tristan group. 25 species
of fish are known from the island’s waters with another 17 species
probably occurring. These include the one fish endemic to the islands,
the klipfish Bovichtus diacanthus. The Tristan rock lobster Jasus
tristani is commercially important and octopus is caught with.
Marine macro-invertebrate life is scarce but as with Gough, sea urchins
and whelks are conspicuous, also the large barnacle Megabalanus isolde
(Ryan & Glass,2001).
44 bird species are recorded, of which 16, possibly
20 breed on the island. All but five are seabirds of the subantarctic
region: the brown noddy Anous stolidus is a tropical species and
there are four native land birds. One species breeds only on Inaccessible
Island, the endemic spectacled petrel Procellaria conspicillata (CR).
3-4,000 pairs nest in burrows on the high plateau, one of thirteen burrow-nesting
species on the island (Ryan & Maloney, 2000). Apart from Gough, the
island is the only other breeding site of the Tristan or wandering albatross
Diomedea dabbenena (EN, 2-3 pairs). Three other breeding species
are endemic to the Tristan-Gough islands: great shearwater Puffinus
gravis (2 million pairs), Atlantic yellow-nosed mollyhawk Thalassarche
chlororhyncos (1,000 pairs) and Atlantic petrel Pterodroma incerta
(VU). Two other breeding species are listed as threatened: rockhopper
penguin Eudyptes chrysocome moseleyi (VU) and sooty albatross Phoebetria
fusca (VU). Only the marauding subantarctic skua Catharacta
antarctica feeds on the island, mostly on spectacled petrels. The
soft-plumaged petrel Pterodroma mollis and whitebellied storm petrel
Fregetta gralaria populations are globally important. Of the four
land birds the Inaccessible Island rail Atlantisia rogersi (VU),
the smallest existing flightless bird, is found only on the island in
a population of 8,500. There are three endemic subspecies: Tristan thrush
Nesochicla eremita (850 pairs), thick-billed bunting Nesospiza
wilkinsi (VU, 2,000 pairs) and Tristan bunting Nesospiza acunhae(VU,
10,000 pairs). The buntings exemplify local adaptive radiation,
but may be hybridising which could eventually produce a new species endemic
to the island. All would be vulnerable to mammalian predators (Ryan &
Glass, 2001).
CULTURAL HERITAGE The Tristan arcihpelago was
discovered by Tristão d'Ancunha in 1506, was visited periodically by Dutch
sailors and annexed to Britain in 1816. Both Gough and Inaccessible Islands
were exploited by sealers in the last decade of the 18th century and early
decades of the 19th century. Sealers stayed on Gough Island for considerable
periods, subsisting on fish, seabirds, eggs, wild plants and cultivated
potatoes (no longer present on Gough). Whaling occurred between 1830 and
1870, and Tristan islanders visited Inaccessible between the 1850s and
1890s to harvest seals and the introduced goats and pigs, but the islands
remained uninhabited.
LOCAL HUMAN POPULATION Gough Island has never
been permanently populated and the only inhabitants are the six scientists
working at the meteorological station which has functioned since 1956.
The only man-made structure on the island is the meteorological station
and its associated generators, storerooms, communication facilities and
helicopter landing site. Inaccessible Island has been uninhabited except
for a two-year farming settlement 1936-38 but has been regularly visited
from Tristan for birds, eggs, driftwood, guano and apples. The last pigs,
sheep and cattle were removed in the 1950s. Since 1949 its coastal waters
within 50nm are fished for the Tristan rock lobster Jasus tristani by
a single licensee. This, with crayfish fishing, is the island groups'
main source of revenue.
VISITORS AND VISITOR FACILITIES Access to both
islands is prohibited unless written approval has been obtained from the
Administrator of Tristan da Cunha, although cruise ships have begun to
visit other islands of the group. Landing on Gough is restricted to the
coast next to the meteorological station, and on Inaccessible to Blendon
Hall Bay, site of the old settlement (and two guided tour landing sites).
It is suggested that signs be erected on the islands, stating the conservation
objectives, and that detailed information be produced for permitted visitors
to the islands (Cooper & Ryan, 1994). There are no visitor facilities.
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH AND FACILITIES Scientists
have visited Gough Island periodically from 1811 on (Tagart, 1832). The
Gough Island Scientific Survey, the first scientific visit specific to
Gough took place in 1955/6, produced the first topographical map of the
island (Heanley & Holdgate, 1957). A number of biological and other scientific
papers were produced over this period. The scientific base was taken over
by the South African Weather Bureau in 1956, and the present weather station
was built in 1963. Current research is mainly undertaken by biologists
at the Fitzpatrick Institute of African Ornithology of the University
of Cape Town. Thirteen short expeditions were completed between 1979 and
1990, with scientific study concentrating on the population dynamics of
seabird populations and the island's biota, emphasising its conservation
(Cooper & Ryan, 1994).
Inaccessible Island has had over 30 mostly brief visits by researchers
since 1871. HMS Challenger's day visit in 1873 produced 9 papers, the
17-day Norwegian Scientific Expedition of 1937-38 produced 50 papers,
the three-month Denstone College Expedition of 1982-83 produced 17 papers,
and three South African Expeditions between 1987 and 1990 under the aegis
of the national Antarctic Programme produced 23 papers. The hut at Blendon
Hall serves as a headquarters. There is an automatic weather station on
the island (Ryan & Glass, 2001).
CONSERVATION VALUE Gough Island is the least
disturbed major cool-temperate island ecosystem in the South Atlantic
Ocean, and one of the most important sea-bird colonies in the world. The
island is scenically beautiful with spectacular sea cliffs round much
of the coastline. Two endemic landbirds are found: the Gough moorhen and
the Gough finch. Gough is in the Tristan da Cunha Priority One Endemic
Bird Area, as defined by BirdLife International. Its undisturbed nature
makes it particularly valuable for biological research, which, with weather
monitoring, is the only other activity permitted on the island (Oldfield,
1994).
Inaccessible Island's values complement those of Gough Island. It is also
largely pristine and is one of the few temperate oceanic islands without
introduced mammals. It has two birds, eight plants and ten invertebrates
found nowhere else, 70 terrestrial plant and animal species are restricted
to the islands and 60 marine species are endemic to the island group (Ryan
& Glass, 2001).
CONSERVATION MANAGEMENT The Tristan da Cunha
Conservation Ordinance of 1976 designates Gough Island and its territorial
waters out to three nautical miles as a wildlife reserve. This ordinance
provides strict legislation to conserve the island and its surrounding
marine habitat.
The Tristan da Cunha Conservation Ordinance of 1976
designated Gough Island and its territorial waters out to three nautical
miles as a wildlife reserve. This ordinance provided strict legislation
to conserve the island and its surrounding marine habitat.
The Tristan da Cunha Fisheries Limits Ordinance 1983, as amended by Ordinances
Nos 2 of 1991 and 1992 defines the fisheries limit as 200 nautical miles
around Gough Island and makes provision for fishing within these limits.
Commercial fishing without a licence is strictly prohibited. The objectives
of this comprehensive legislation are to maintain the flora, fauna, geological,
scenic and historical features of the island, and to prevent any human-induced
change to these. The island is zoned into a logistic zone (six hectares
for support of the meteorological station), marine zone, scientific research
zones, and the conservation zone (most of the island). Other objectives
include the promotion of scientific research, and to create awareness
of the value and significance of Gough Island globally. A Gough Island
Wildlife Reserve Advisory Committee (GIWRAC) has been established by the
Tristan Natural Resources Department to advise the administrator of Tristan
da Cunha on matters related to its management, and a representative visits
Gough Island once a year (Cooper & Ryan, 1994). Monitoring of albatrosses
is done from the Institute of African Ornithology at the University of
Capetown. At the 290th meeting of the Tristan da Cunha Island Council
in 2001 the whole island group was declared a whale sanctuary. The 1993
Management Plan is being updated.
A Management Plan for Inaccessible Island funded by WWF-UK and supported
by the government was completed in 2001. It was based on two expeditions,
during 1989-90 (Cooper & Ryan, 1994) and 1999-2000. Its aims are to conserve
and restore the biota, environment, scenery and historic sites, to exclude
alien species and to promote research and the awareness of the island's
values. The administration of both islands is by the Island Council of
Tristan da Cunha, advised by a group of experts. Strict controls are maintained
over access and the introduction of alien species, especially rodents,
and continual monitoring is needed. Agriculture is prohibited and any
construction requires a permit and can only be done at the Blendon Hall
site. Tourism is restricted to the marine zone with guide-controlled small
boat landings at two points only. Fishing for rock lobster with octopus
as a by-catch is controlled for sustainability and a fisheries patrol
vessel helps to enforce the regulations. The fishing is mostly over the
submarine plateau west of the island.
MANAGEMENT CONSTRAINTS Constraints include unlicensed
fishing within the reserve, and illegal use of drift nets. Pollution from
the meteorological station is carefully controlled, and there is legislation
controlling foreign pollutants, such as vessels passing through the islands'
territorial waters. The introduction of alien species is a threat. Goats
and sheep have been introduced to the islands in the past, but are no
longer present. All supplies to the meteorological station on Gough are
carefully checked for alien fauna. In 1990, for example, 10 live exotic
snail species were found in an imported cauliflower, along with aphids,
caterpillars and mites, all of which were removed from the island. Alien
plants originate mainly from seeds found in bird droppings, and are found
around the nesting burrows on Inaccessible and in coastal areas of Gough
which are trampled by penguins and seals. The major recent invasion there
by procumbent pearlwort required an eradication program during 1999-2000
and the weed will need monitoring and containment for several years. The
eradication team suggested that this could be done by staff of the meteorological
station (Gremmen & Barendse, 2000). Illegal long-line and driftnet fishing
all over the southern oceans, including in the islands' territorial limits
is killing an increasing number of seabirds.
STAFF Two scientists from the Percy Fitzpatrick
Institute of African Ornithology, University of Cape Town, South Africa
were appointed Conservation Officers by the Government of Tristan da Cunha
in 1990. These officers have many duties, including fisheries patrol,
and are empowered to arrest those disobeying the legislation set out in
the Conservation of fauna and flora of Tristan da Cunah Ordinance of 1976
(Cooper & Ryan, 1994).
BUDGET No information is available.
LOCAL ADDRESSES
The Administrator, The Residency, Tristan da Cunha,
South Atlantic.
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Bulletin - JLB Smith Institute of Ichthyology Rhodes University Grahamstown
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DATE November 1994 Updated April 2004 |