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World
Heritage Sites
COUNTRY Sweden NAME The High Coast IUCN MANAGEMENT CATEGORY The site includes one National Park, 18 Nature Reserves, one Nature Conservation Area, 11 Landscape Protection Areas and eight Bird Sanctuaries. Parts of the site are therefore managed under the following management regimes: Ia, II (National park), IV, V Proposed World Heritage Site – Natural Criteria (i), (ii) and (iii) BIOGEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION 2.03.03 (Palaearctic - West Eurasian Taiga - Temperate needle-leaf forests) GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION Located in the Province of Västernorrland, this site is centred on the western shores of the southern Gulf of Bothnia, a northern extension of the Baltic Sea. The northern boundary lies about 10km south of the town of Örnsköldsvik, where it encompasses the southern tips of mainland and offshore islands. To the west the border passes inland, cutting just south of the town of Köpmanholmen, but incorporating the towns of Docksta and Ullånger. The boundary turns south following the centre of the Ångermanälven fjord, while offshore the eastern boundary incorporates all of the offshore islands, and runs about 4-10 beyond these in most areas. The site’s geographical co-odinates are: 17º54’-19º13’E, 62º44’-63º13’N DATE AND HISTORY OF ESTABLISHMENT The following dates are given for the establishment of the protected areas included within the park: National Parks: Skuleskogen National Park 1984 Nature reserves: Balesudden 1985 Nature Conservation Areas: Nordingrå Nature Conservation Area 1983. In addition to these sites, the eight Bird sanctuaries were designated in 1976, while eight of the Landscape Protection Areas were established in 1968, one in 1969, one in 1974 and one in 1983. AREA 1,425km2, including 800km2 (56%) marine. This area includes existing protected areas, with total areal coverage listed below: National Parks: Skuleskogen National Park 2,950ha (including 300ha of sea) Nature reserves: Balesudden 934ha Nature Conservation Areas: Nordingrå Nature Conservation Area 6000ha. LAND TENURE Much of the land is under private ownership. State ownership accounts for some 5,000ha, including most of the nature reserves and bird sanctuaries and the entire land area of the Skuleskogen National Park. ALTITUDE 0 - 350m (with sub-marine depths of over 20m.) PHYSICAL FEATURES The geology and geomorphology of the nominated area are particularly interesting. In many areas the bedrock or overlying deposits are exposed, and are therefore relatively easy to study and appreciate. In the south-west the underlying bedrock is granite and gneiss, with magmatic rocks in the north and east, including reddish rapakivi granite, gabbro and anorthosite. Throughout the entire area are seams of diabase, with large slabs of diabase in some areas overlying ancient sandstone. The sea floor of the Baltic also has a sandstone base, overlain by younger rocks, including Ordovician limestones. The Scandinavian Peninsula has been affected by three major ice ages: the Elster, Saale and Weichsel. During the most recent of these, the Weichsel, a vast glacier/ice-cap was centred upon, and had its greatest volume directly over, the High Coast area. This ice cap had its greatest extent around 18,000 years b.p. Immediately following the retreat of the ice, the land began to uplift, with initial rates of elevation of 100-150mm/year. It is estimated that the total uplift since this time is around 800m, possibly the highest uplift of any area in the world in recent geological history. The final retreat of the ice from the area of the High Coast occurred some 9,600 years ago, and it is clear that at this time the land was still some 285m lower than its current position. Rates of uplift are currently about 8mm per year. The geomorphology of the region is significantly shaped by the combined processes of glaciation, glacial retreat and the emergence of new land from the sea. The latter process continues today. The only other area that has had comparable uplift after the most recent glaciation is Hudson Bay in Canada, where isostatic uplift is 272m. Glaciation left considerable marks on the landscape. Glacial flow was from the north-west, and these sides of the mountains are the most heavily worn. Valleys are orientated north-west to south-east, while the south-east side of the mountains is generally far steeper. Deep grooves have been worn into the bedrock in many areas. There are a number of steep faults and fissures, many gouged out by glacial erosion and the activities of freezing and both fluvial and glacial erosion. At the time of the final retreat of the ice only the highest peaks in the area were actually above sea level. This area of "highest coastline" is an important geological feature in Scandinavia - it is only the areas above this line which bear untransformed glacial moraines, which, in many areas, means the best soils for forestry and farmland. In the area of the High Coast this highest coastline is at its highest altitude, some 285m above current sea level and there are only nine "till-capped peaks" within the nominated area. Below this height many areas were washed clean by the sea, however many of these same moraines were sorted and deposited by the sea in the lowest and level locations. Fine clays, silts and sands being deposited in the valley bottoms and larger gravels and rocks deposited in more exposed areas. As the sea has continued to retreat salt-water areas have been cut off from the sea forming lakes, which have gradually become freshwater. There are a considerable number of lakes in the site. CLIMATE Historical variation in the climate has driven most of the important changes in geomorphology and in the vegetation history of the region. Immediately following the retreat of the last glacial cover about 9,600 to 9,500 years b.p. temperatures were probably similar to the present day. Following this period, temperatures reached some 2-3ºC warmer than they are today, until about 4,000 years b.p when they began to fall again. Current climate is cold temperate, although further details are unavailable. VEGETATION Plant succession in the area is well documented. The vegetation history having been affected both by the constant exposure of new lands and by the changing temperatures. The vegetation in most areas of the archipelago is dominated by southern boreal forests. These include spruce dominated forests and areas of mixed evergreen and deciduous species. The high coast is the northern limit for some 40 plants, including some which are relicts of the earlier, slightly warmer conditions, including hazel Corylus avellana, lime Tilia cordata and maple Acer platanoides. Such relict populations are particularly important in some of the lower, south-facing slopes where the soil is good, including the nature reserves of Omneberget and Skulleberg. High on the cliffs, particularly on the north-facing slopes, there are a number of alpine plants, including purple saxifrage Saxifraga oppositifolia, tufted saxifrage Saxifraga caespitosa, the fern Polystichum lonchitis and the three-leaved rush Juncus trifidus. One other characteristic plant is the mountain rock-cress Cardaminopsis petraea, which is particularly abundant in this part of Sweden. Other important plant communities include lakes, bogs and other wetland communities. A comprehensive vegetation survey of marine habitats of the High coast was carried out between 1996-1998. Common shoreline species include green algae Cladophora spp., red algae Ceramium tenuicorne and Furcellaria lumbricalis and brown algae Pilayella litoralis as well as Bladder wrack Fuscus vesiculosu. The presence of vascular plants and stoneworts in addition to species present in the outer archipelago and its shoreline, are the fundamental differences between vegetation communities of the mid-archipelago. The occurrence of species such as perfolliate Potamogeton perfoliatus horned pondweed Zannichellia palustris and water mil-foils Myriophyllum spp. is due to the area’s more sheltered nature. Stonewort species include bird’s nest stonewort Tolypella nidifica, a species that thrives in brackish water and coral stonewort Chara tomentosa. Agriculture forms a significant part of the landscape. There is evidence of wheat and barley being grown in the area some 4000 years b.p. FAUNA The offshore islands are of some importance to seabirds. A survey in 1987 found 6,000 pairs, representing 24 species. Gnäggen Island and nature reserve is particularly important, especially for nesting guillemots Uria aalge and razorbills Alca torda. Marine fauna comprise a mixture of fresh and saltwater species, all of which are affected by the varying salinity of the Baltic Sea, which ranges from 2-8 psa. The resultant consequences of this are that the number of species is quite limited. Species numbers decline sharply at the entrance of the Baltic at the south, and continues to decrease by degrees to the north. This decline is more abrupt in the transitional zone between the Baltic proper and the Sea of Bothnia and that between the Sea of Bothnia and the Bay of Bothnia. There are several marine species in the nominated area, however its northern sector is near the northern limit of them. Two seal species are present in the waters of the High Coast, the ringed seal Phoca Hispifa and the grey seal Halichoerus grypus (EN) (north-east Atlantic populations). The latter occurs in greater numbers. Although there are no suitable haul-out areas for large gatherings of grey seals (these are located in the Northern Quark and south of the High Coast), their numbers in the area remain significant. Benthic fauna of the deeper waters of the High coast are dominated by a small number of species. These include the isopod Saduria entomon, the amphipod Monoporeia affinis, the Baltic Mussel Macoma bathica and a few semi-pelagic opossum shrimp species (Mysidae). Fish species found in deeper waters are usually only present in the summer. They include the four-horned sculpin Triglopsis quadricornis, white fish and the common sea snail Liparis liparis. Shoreline fauna species include the acorn barnacle Balanus improvisus, the common mussel Mytilus edulis, the coralline Electra crustukenta, the Baltic Mussel Macoma balthica and the freshwater snail Theodoxus fluviatilis. Shallow water crustaceans include the amphiopods Gammarus zaddachi, G. oceanicus (whose northern limit is the High Coast), G. salinus, Pallasea quadrispinosa (a relict species primarily found in fresh water) and Corophium volutato. Several snail species are represented in the mid-archipelago zone, they include Paludestrina jenkinsi, Theodoxus fluviatilis, Lymnaea peregra and Bithynia tentaculata. Saltwater and fresh water fish species regularly occur and reproduce along the High Coast and within shallow and deep-water areas of the Archipelago. Warm-water species found in shallow waters include perch Perca fluviatilis and roach Rutilus rutilu. Cold-water species of fresh and salt-water origin are white fish, Baltic Herring Clupea harengus, salmon Salmo salar, four-horned sculpin and eel pout Zoarces viviparus. Immigrant species include sprat Sprattus sprattus, cod Gadus morhua and European flounder Platichthys flesus. Terrestrial mammals occurring within the High coast region include lynx Lynx canadensis, brown bear Ursus arctos, roe deer Capreolus capreolus and moose Alces alces. Avifauna is represented by the Corncrake Crex crex (VU), Spotted Crake Porzana porzana, Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva, Marsh Warbler Achrocephalus palustris, Blyth’s Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum and the Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos. These species are primarily found on the larger islands of the archipelago, such as N. and S. Ulvön and on eastern parts of the mainland, near the coast. Species found in Skuleskogen National Park within the nominated site include Willow Grouse Lagopus lagopus, Siberian Jay Perisoreus infaustus and Rustic Bunting Emberiza rustica. Additionally all 7 of Sweden’s woodpecker species are found here. CULTURAL HERITAGE There is a strong record of human presence in the area dating from late Stone Age dwellings about 4000 years b.p. An important Iron Age village, Gene, lies near the northern boundary of the site and has been excavated and restored. There are remains of longhouses dating back to around 100-600 AD. More recent remains of fishing camps with log cabins date back to the 16th century, while the present century has seen major expansion of the human population, with increased land under cultivation and large numbers of trees cut down for industry. It is interesting to note that the historical succession of habitation follows the changing position of the coastlines, with the oldest remains now lying some distance up the hillsides. LOCAL HUMAN POPULATION Approximately 4,500 people live within the park. The park is a mosaic of natural and human landscapes. Human activities in the park include fishing, agriculture and growing employment in the tourism sector. Despite this, rural depopulation is occurring, and is seen as a problem in the World Heritage nomination: there are apparently few remaining farmers and commercial fishing has virtually ceased. VISITORS AND VISITOR FACILITIES In 1993 there were over 3,000,000 visitors to the region, largely concentrated between June to August, with a short period of winter sports in March. These figures include the towns of Kramfors and Örnsköldsvik which lie outside the World Heritage nominated area. There are a number of interpretation centres, including a Nature Centre, and six additional tourist centres open during the summer. In addition there are substantial museums near the designated area in Härnösand and Örnsköldsvik, just outside the site. There are a large number of hotels, cabins, hostels and camping grounds within the site. Camping is actually permitted in any area for periods of up to 24 hours. There are also a number of hiking trails in the area, while canoeing and fishing are also popular. SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH AND FACILITIES No information CONSERVATION VALUE The key areas of unique value within the nominated area relate to the unusual geological and geomorphological history, with ongoing changes reflected in both the vegetation history, and the cultural development of the area. CONSERVATION MANAGEMENT Management is a complex issue within the World Heritage nominated area. There are management plans for all of the nature reserves and the national park. The remaining land is largely under private ownership, however further regulations may still apply. The site falls under the jurisdiction of two municipalities: Örnsköldsvik and Kramfors, both of which adopted development plans in 1990. At a higher level the site falls within the Västernorland County which, for example, develops logging policies. Work has commenced to produce a management plan for the area, describing how the site will be managed in the long-term. The plan focuses on the management of the special assets that form the basis for the nomination: geological and biological phenomena related to land uplift; the marine environment and the landscape’s natural beauty. Additionally, a management committee is being formed for the High coast area, with representatives from the County Administrative board, the municipalities of Örnsköldsvik and Kramfors, as well as the County Forest Board. Combined with new and more powerful environmental legislation enacted in Sweden in 1999, greater protection for the site should be achievable. The plan is hoped to be finished by October 2000. MANAGEMENT CONSTRAINTS Clearly the multiple ownership and lack of a cohesive single management agency or policy present particular problems for the unified management of the area. This need is recognised in the World Heritage nomination and steps are being taken to address this through the creation of a management plan for the area and the establishment of a management committee. Developmental pressures include dredging of shallow areas, the construction of masts and power-generating windmills. There are also a considerable number of roads in the site, including a major motorway and one of the world’s longest suspension bridges, built in recent years. Other pressures on the site are not considered to be great. The worst impacts of acid precipitation appear to be in decline, as is pollution discharge, such that these are thought to be some of the cleanest seas in the region. STAFF No information BUDGET No figures are available, however the state provides funding for the management of the national park, nature reserves and historical sites. LOCAL ADDRESSES Swedish Environmental Protection Agency, Blekholmsterrassen 36, Blekholmsgatan 5, S-106 48 STOCKHOLM Telephone: +46 8 698 10 00 Fax: +46 8 20 29 25 Länsstyrelsen i Västernorrlands län, Sektionen
för naturvård och miljöövervakning, S-871
86 Härnösand, Sveriges Riksantikvarieämbetet, Box 5405, S-114 84 Stockholm REFERENCES Anon. (1998). The High Coast. Nomination by Sweden for inclusion as a Natural Property in the Unesco World Heritage List. 27pp. County Administration of Västernorrland. The High Coast: Enclosures to the Swedish Nomination for inclusion as a Natural Property in the UNESCO World Heritage List. (2000). Swedish EnviroNet (1997) Environment in Västernorrland. World Wide Web site: http://www.y.lst.se/miljosidor/english/index.html Swedish Environmental Protection Agency (1998). Swedish National Parks: Skuleskogen. World Wide Web site: http://www.environ.se/www-eng/park/eskule.htm
DATE January 1998, November 2000 |
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